Our first stop was at a silk farm that ended up being closed because the local village lost 7 cows due to the cold. Our second stop was to see an abandoned tank. It was kind of neat, but mostly muddy so we hopped back in the car pretty quickly.
Third stop was at the Tham Pha and Tham Sangjia Buddha Caves. We trekked through rain to the mouth of the pleasantly warm and dry cave which holds a 5m tall, 1200 year old Buddha. Deeper into the caverns we found stalactites used as monk gongs (they sound just like it!) and randomly placed antique Buddha statues left from the days when local villagers used the space as their temple. The cave was also used as a hospital during the Indochina War and housed more than 800 patients. We saw an old gurney and some old medicine viles. Small rocks started falling at the entrance as we left thanks to rain, so we really felt like Indiana Jones as we raced out.
Back in the car, we searched for a lunch spot, but couldn't find any open restaurants (the locals don't work in this weather, so no one eats out!). We agreed to head on our way and just stop when we saw something open. We drove through curvy mountain roads...swerving around fallen rock, trees and mud at times...for an hour and a half before finding a place. We warmed up with hot Pho gai (rice noodle and chicken soup) and hopped back into the car.
For five hours we drove past remote hill tribe villages; fog hanging low,people huddled in their huts, wood smoke seeping through the grass roofs. We were not in a place that sees any tourism so, when we stopped at a village for a leg stretch, we were a spectacle. The door slowly opened at each hut we walked by with 3-5 children peeking out at us. Twice, a dozen+ children and adults poured out of their huts to catch a look at us. Addi, of course, was the highlight, and was in heaven with so many kids around. She desperately wanted to communicate with them, but with no common language, games, etc it was a struggle. She just kept saying "Sabadai!" ("hello!") Over and over. Judging by the giggles and chatter, that seemed to work!
We got back in the car after an hour or so, and before long found ourselves stuck in a mud jam for three hours. We watched car after car get stuck in the deep red mud while a bulldozer tried unsuccessfully to fix the road and tow them out.
We reached our hotel 12 hours after our departure (6 hours late!), got a second room for our driver and guide friends (we couldn't let them try to drive home that night! They are in the last photo, with Jim) and fell asleep in the freezing unheated room.
No one said adventuring is always easy...but it is always an adventure!
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Wow! Another memorable part of your adventure!! Those caves look pretty cool and I love the stories about Addi and the kids. Keep warm and safe. ML Baba
ReplyDeleteAmazing stories from Laos. Crazy that it's so cold and wet and muddy. But, the Smith family really are experienced travelers and true adventurers at this point - I'm impressed with your ability to shift gears and make arrangements as you go. I love the photos - especially Addi with all the villagers. Even with the rain and mud, it's a beautiful country. Although the tanks and shrapnel are a bit disturbing. I'm glad the sun is peaking through and you're warming up a bit now. Can't wait for more on the next leg of your journey. Love you. xo Meg
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