Monday, February 28, 2011

The 12 Hour Ride

We took a bus from Siem Reap, Cambodia to Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam today. Actually, it was 14 hours, but the bus was nice and it went by pretty quickly. I think a long bus ride is a required part of any SE Asia adventure...not to mention is saved us about $400 beans.

Since we sat in our seats for all of the waking day, there isn't much to write about. We drove though gorgeous Cambodian countryside and small towns, took a ferry (in the bus) across the Mekong River, and went through the inefficient border crossing process (requiring three separate stops!). It was dark for the Vietnam part of the ride, so we couldn't really see anything.

Addi and I took some self-portraits, and I finished my book "First They Killed My Father" a memoir about the Khmer Rouge written from the perspective of a 5 year old. It is a must read and adds depth to the people you meet and places you go in Cambodia. All of the horror happened just over 30 hears ago...I couldn't stop envisioning some of it as I watched the countryside whiz by.

We have an early flight tomorrow to Nha Trang for some beach and snorkeling before heading inland to mountainous Dalat. Ho Chi Minh City is a crazy place that we are saving for the end of the week.
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Sunday, February 27, 2011

The Stilted Village

We went to Kampong Phluk, a village of stilted houses in the flood plain of Tonle Sap Lake yesterday, and boy was that cool! It was an hour away by tuk-tuk, half of which is spent on dirt roads (it was a long dusty ride) past bright green rice paddies. We then hopped into a creaky wooden boat and puttered through a narrow canal; passing dozens of fishermen neck deep in the muddy water working nets.

We turned a bend to see house after house raised on stilts 20+ feet in the sky. We saw bamboo boxes that we were told become floating pig pens, chicken coops, etc when the waters come. At this time of year, the lake shore is pretty far away so it is mind boggling to think that the water rises that far and high in the rainy season!

Kampong Phluk is just far enough away from Siem Reap that it is not heavily frequented by tourists. Additionally, modern world progress has been slow to reach it. So, life for these villagers have not much changed over the years- it was really like going back in time. We were just passers-by in the regular daily life of the village. In fact, most people were so busy that they didn't even notice us (except for the fishermen who had to move for the boat). For better or for worse, though, there is alot of construction on the canal and I believe the plan is to dramatically increase tourism there in the next few years.

Today we just rested by the pool, packed up for the long bus ride to Hochiminh tomorrow, and planned our upcoming week in Vietnam. We hope to hit the night market for a minute and make it out to dinner, but that's it. Really, I focused all of my energy on kicking the killer cold I have been suffering through all week- my third since we left the US. I guess I can escape the winter cold but not the winter colds!
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Friday, February 25, 2011

Same, Same but Different.

I know, I know. We said no more temples...but this one is 45 miles outside of town and takes you through beautiful countryside. It is currently the dry season so the rice paddies are dry and brown with the occasional cow or two wandering about. Without the farming to do, locals were resting and visiting with each other; hanging in hammocks in the shade under stilted houses. We stopped in a tiny village to buy a drink and found no english spoken there (vs in and about Siem Reap where nearly everyone speaks english). Mostly, we got away from the masses and bustle and saw some village life, which is what were after.

The Beng Melea temple ruins have been completely overrun by jungle and there have been no efforts to restore it. We were encouraged to scramble over the huge fallen sandstone bricks, explore hidden passages and swing on the vines. It is far enough from the Angkor Wat complex that very few bother to visit it...so we loved it. An unofficial guide adopted us and took us to some neat secret spots. He also pointed out where some scenes from Lara Croft: Tomb Raider were filmed. I guess we will have to watch that movie when we get home. Addi made a prayer for good luck to all of the people she loves at a makeshift Buddha, asked a zillion more questions about religion, and we were on our way.

On the way home we stopped for a roadside snack of sticky rice, coconut and black bean cooked in bamboo and is was delicious! We also stopped at a local market which was tight alleyways, full stalls and pure mayhem.

We spent the afternoon on touristy Pub Street- which is just what it sounds like, and then at the Old Market where Addi and I got a fish pedicure (you stick your feet in a tank full of fish and they nibble your feet! Creepy, right?) And we haggled and bought small trinkets.

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Thursday, February 24, 2011

Extended to April 4

So.... 12 weeks of adventure isn't enough. We have the bug. We extended almost 3 weeks so we can see what we want to see and do what we want to do without the pressure of time. What a strange concept- no real time constraints! So, new itinerary:
- leave Bangkok for Sydney on April 1st
- leave Sydney for NY on April 4th
- fly for 23 hours and still get home on April 4th- the same day we left...now THAT is efficient!
- begin job search on arrival
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Ankgor Wat

Angkor Wat is as beautiful as described. It took 300,000 people, 600,000 elephants and 37 years to build and is the only temple that was not left to the jungle many many years ago. The front is under renovation, so the amazing 'first view' you read about was marred with green construction netting. Bad for us, good for the future. We found a similar but unmarred view from the side, photo attached. Children under 12 are not allowed to climb to the top, so Jim and the Goose stayed below and I climbed the steep stairs for the tremendous vistas.

We visited two other sites as well, including Ta Som, the most distant Ankgor temple and home to an amazing strangling fig tree with roots dripping down over the temple structure.

In non-temple related news: In most bathroom stalls you will find a sign letting people know that they are not to smoke, stand on the seat, wash their feet, or shower with the little bidet faucet provided. It doesn't get much better than that.

We hopped into our favorite tuk-tuk at 9:00 this morning for a full day of temple touring, and concluded with some delicious ice cream at 3:30. It was a great two days...but extremely hot and fairly crowded. Maybe we are not as cultured or as sophisticated as some because after two full days, we have had our fill (you're right...I photographed a bathroom sign. Of course I'm not as sophistocated as some!). The temples are awe inspiring and beautiful and historical, but we are all done. I am sure Addi is 10x more done than we are, but she hasn't complained once! We have arranged a day in the countryside for tomorrow for a change of pace.

Side Note: We have decided to skip Phnom Penh and head straight to Vietnam on the 28th. Although Jim and I would really like to see the Khmer Rouge Genocide Museum and the Killing Fields there, we have decided that it is just too deep for Addi. She is a very observant and inquisitive little girl and we don't want to expose her to it (she is too smart to accept BS cover-up explanations). She still asks why grown-ups (the Burmese) broke the Buddhas in Thailand, so I'm not sure how we would do with mass torture and systematic murder. There are also temples and pagodas to see there...but we are ready for a break from those.
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Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Angkor Thom...and Indiana Jones

Addi woke up feeling 100% better, so we set off with our favorite tuk-tuk driver for a full day of temple touring. The travel books all suggested you start with Angkor Thom and save Angkor Wat for the grand finale...which is what we did.

Saving Angkor Wat for tomorrow, we started at the south gate of Angkor Thom which is lined with the faces of 54 demons and 54 gods. I attached a photo of a demon...

Angkor Thom was built in the late 1100's and covers 10 km square. It is huge and incredible. Much of the Lara Croft: Tomb Raider was apparently filmed here if you want to check it out!

Bayon is the largest of 5 Thom complexes and is located at dead center. It is famous for the 216 giant smiling faces, perched high on 54 towers, looking in every direction (2nd and 3d photos). Baphuon, the complex next to it, had been taken apart piece by piece for renovations when the Khmer Rouge destroyed the records leaving more than 300,000 stones without a map to rebuild by. Reconstruction is still underway today and the ground is covered with stones waiting for their home (4th photo).

We visited 6 other ruins before wrapping up the day at Ta Prohm "the Ultimate Indiana Jones Fantasy" (the last 5 pics). This complex is in true ruins, with a significant number of the walls and structures reduced to a heap of fallen stone. More magnificent, though, are the giant roots of trees growing over, around and through the walls. You can really see how the jungle begins to overtake. With all of the fallen stone, this complex was much harder to navigate. At one point, Jim and I felt as though we were trapped in an ancient IKEA...designed to prevent you from finding an exit. After asking for directions several times, we did finally find our way out of this Temple of Doom.

We were so impressed with what we saw today...although were a bit ruined out by the end. I am glad we saved the best for tomorrow when we are fresh!
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Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Cambodia Day One

We had to get up at 3:00AM this morning to catch our flight to Cambodia, so we were all fairly exhausted today. Temple touring is tough for a toddler on a well rested day, so we decided to be smart and save it for tomorrow. We plan to stay here for six nights, so we have the luxury of time to take it slow.

Today we settled into our hotel (love it), checked out the surrounding area (love it), spent some time at the pool (Addi can finally swim with her head above water!) and headed off in a tuk-tuk to see the sunset over Angkor Wat.

Unfortunately, we didn't make it far before Addi started crying and complaining of ear pain. So, off to the pharmacy we went and got her something to help (we hope). The poor little trooper keeps wincing in her sleep. If she is feeling better tomorrow, we will begin to explore this amazing city and temples. If not, we will coddle her and try the next day. Send your no-ear-infection-wishes Addi's way!
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Monday, February 21, 2011

Things We Miss After 2 Months

We are on the plane to Cambodia talking about the things we miss. It is a surprisingly short list!
-friends and family. We miss you the most. (you have all been individually named rest assured, but for the sake of readability, we lumped everyone into one line. Sorry! I should also mention, family includes the cats.)
-steak
-ice cream and rainbow sprinkles
-our beds
-wine
-potable tap water
-milk
-mac n cheese
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Sunday, February 20, 2011

Pulau Weh - Underwater Paradise.

Pulau Weh is a tiny island in the Indian Ocean; about an hour ferry ride from Banda Aceh and just off the northern tip of Sumatra. There are no hotels here, just one room bungalows hidden amongst the trees and rocks on the shore. We stayed in one on the water at Ibioh Bay that was rustic (as they all are here) but perfect. The only way to get to it (and most of the others) was with a long walk through lush green...so we were glad we packed light.

I haven't written an entry in a few days because we have been doing the same thing each day: wake up to the sound of waves lapping beneath us, have breakfast outdoors overlooking the turquiose water, jump in and out of the water with our snorkel and mask all day, rest in the hammock or on the dock, eat a late dinner (by our standards) and fall asleep to the sound of the waves.

We haven't left Ibioh; leaving the rest of the island unexplored. We are fine with that, though. Pulau Weh is all about exploring the amazing sea life right outside your bungalow. And is is amazing. It is literally like swimming in an aquarium- we see something new each time we go in.

Unfortunately, my camera can't capture the most spectacular parts of this place-under the sea. I have attached some overland shots that should bring you the island vibe. We are very relaxed.
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Friday, February 18, 2011

2004 Boxing Day Tsunami

We arrived in Banda Aceh and found it to be as warm and welcoming as any place we have been. I am so so glad we came.

En route to the hotel we stopped at a Tsunami Memorial, one of four in the city, where more than 40,000 unknown Tsunami victims are buried in a mass grave. The four memorials together are the final resting place for more than 100,000 bodies. From what I have read, the survivors mourn at the mass grave closest to where they believe their lost loved ones to have been when the tragedy struck.

We also visited the huge fishing boat which washed 4 km inland to land on a house. They left the boat there and have turned it into a memorial as well. The plaque said that the boat saved 59 lives. It is amazing to see...and a bit haunting.

Our hotel (30 min from the coast) has a photo in its lobby of a huge boat in its parking lot! I took a picture of the picture- it is also attached.

The stories and sights like this go on and on.

This city lost 61,000 people on that day. We were in Tanzania where 10 lives were taken and I remember it like it was yesterday. Being here now and seeing these things...and as importantly, seeing the resilience of the survivors, is a stark reminder that even my worst day isn't likely to be as bad as this.

We are heading to Palau Weh fairly early in the morning. We will stay in a stilted bungalow hovering over crystal clear waters filled with exotic sea life. We can not wait!
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Monkey Raid!

Addi and I went to the jungle for one more orangutan experience (the rehabilitation center feeds the semi-wild ones at 9:00 am). We got to see four of them up close and say good-bye. I got a decent video, and will post when I can.

Jim, deterred by the steep climb, stayed behind to enjoy one more cup of coffee and finish his packing. He forgot to close the door to our room and suddenly found himself in the company of 3 grey macaws...bouncing around the room and stealing some food before Jim could shoo them out. I wasn't there to witness this caper, which was likely more entertaining than the best orangutan viewing, but the culprits (one pictured) hung around on our veranda until we left waiting for another opportunity to raid!

We are at the airport now and word is our next stop has wifi so talk to you tomorrow!...unless, of course, there isn't actually wifi!
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Slow and Low...on the Road Again Tomorrow

Jim worked and Addi and I explored Bukit Lawang today. (Did I mention we decided to stay one more night?) We took it slow which means we didn't do much noteworthy, but it was perfect.

Addi made fast friends with a little girl from town named Nadia who shared her bikes and watched in amazement as Addi ate a raw tomato with her lunch (her mother told me that in Indonesia people only eat vegetables mixed in their rice or noodles- never plain like that!). It was fun to see the two play despite the language barrier...and it was fun for me to chat with Nadia's mom!

We crossed the bridge to the other side of town and walked up and down the path; stopping in shady spots to cool off and drink water. The village is small and quaint with most houses primarily wood or bamboo walls and thatched roof. We visited Jim at the internet cafe and closed the afternoon with a swim/ rinse in a waterfall. At dinner, a cheeky monkey jumped onto the table while we were distracted with an orangutan sighting and took two handfuls of food right off the plate! What!?

We have watched the orangutans swing from tree to tree every morning with our breakfast and most evenings with dinner, but will make it into the jungle one more time tomorrow before we leave to see them up close. I hope to make a video- but don't know when I will be able to post it- so stay tuned!

We leave here and head north to Banda Aceh and Pulau Weh in the early afternoon (1 hour flight from Medan, US$120). I had previously decided against these spots because of Sharia Law...but I have met and talked to enough people here (tourists, locals, and previous residents of the area) that I have come around and feel like it is a can't miss. We will only spend 1 night in Banda Aceh and then 2-3 nights snorkeling on Weh, the island everyone describes as paradise. I don't expect to have internet there, so you will likely hear from us in a few days from Cambodia. Then again, I didn't expect to have it here so who knows!
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Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Elephants in the Sumatran Jungle

This may be my favorite day yet. Jim spent the day working in a sweaty internet cafe...and teaching a bunch or twenty-somethings how to play Texas Hold 'Em...and missed it. Had we known it would have been this great....

Addi and I hooked up with an Aussie family, hired a driver for the day (US$50), and headed two and a half hours from Bukit Lawang to Tangkahan. The drive was bumpy dirt roads all the way taking us past tiny remote villages, loads of waving school children, herds of skinny cows, gum and palm oil plantations, and land recently devastated for future palm oil plantations.

The elephant trek goes through Jungle Conservation Area. It turns out that the the beautiful palm forests I mentioned in one of the Malaysia entries are man-made for palm oil production and not only cause the massive clearings of indigenous jungle but also devastates the wildlife population and water supply. Palm oil is a bad thing...not as 'green' as we might believe.

Anyways...on to the trek...
We arrived at the jungle and took a rope and pully boat across a river. I thought we were waiting to go to the elephant riding place when I noticed 4 giant pachyderms prodding up the river on the opposite bank! They slowly approached us, swam across the water (look closely at one of the pictures) and we hopped on! That alone was magical.

Now with passengers, our elephants crossed back over the river (at a shallower spot) and moved into the jungle...just as the downpours came. We were riding elephants, in the jungle, in a tropical rain...this was the most authentic experience I could have ever hoped for!!

The trail was muddy with steep ups and downs. It was so narrow at points that the pachyderms had to walk one giant foot in front of the other to prevent slipping down the slope to our certain doom. I am nervous when horses do this so to be honest, I was terrified! If it weren't for brave Addi sitting with me, I am sure I would have been screaming. Instead I kept asking our excellent guide/ trainer "you've never had an elephant fall, right? You're sure this is ok, right? This elephant isn't going to go rogue, right?" He assured me that he had been working with elephants for 18 years, and with the one I was riding for 7 and has never had a problem. I worked hard to believe it as the elephant grabbed at leaves and small trees with her trunk and snacked along the way.

We had 3 female elephants (including mine) and one male...and I am glad I wasn't on the male. This guy had a little bit more spunk and tried to forge his own path at least once. At another point, he stopped on the trail, grabbed a huge vine (maybe 1 foot in diameter?) that was attached to a tall tree and started pulling with all his might! His trainer gently but firmly kept rubbing the elephants head saying "no, no! Its too big, too big!" Meanwhile, we were getting showered with leaves and debris from above and I waited for the tree to fall on us. All of a sudden, the trainer jumped off of the elephant (leaving the poor Aussie bloke alone on top!), pulled out his giant machete, chopped up the vine/tree and gave the elephant a piece about 6 feet long. He then gave a smaller piece to each of the other elephants, hopped back on this giant creature's neck, and we were on our way.

I should mention that we were on the elephant in front of this action so our guide turned our elephant 180 degrees, on the side of a steep slope, on a dime, so that we could see. Certain we were about to fall, I couldn't hold it in and screamed "oh my God!!" Out loud. The guide looked at me, smiled, mocked me by repeating "oh my God!" in a falsetto voice, winked at Addi, and turned back around.

The trek lasted about an hour and my heart was in my throat the entire time. Addi was so calm and collected that I had to keep asking her to "hold on!" with her response being "but why, mommy? The man in front isn't holding on!" To which I gave the infamous "because I said so"...the guide/ trainer was very experienced and the elephants have been doing this for years, so I know my fears were unnecessary...but what an adrenaline rush.

It was just the most amazing adventure.... unfortunately, due to the downpour, I only got pictures at the very beginning and very end. This is a story I should retell live when I see you....my heart is racing as I write about it!

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